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Love them or hate them, the 1990s gifted us with some of fashion’s best-loved style references. Nearly 30 years on, the power of Clueless co-ords and Christy Turlington’s off-duty wardrobe in Catwalk have helped shape a fashion legacy that’s proven hard to shake. From magnificent gowns to sensational accessories and head-turning street style, here’s the inside take on the decade’s most influential on-screen style moments.
Pretty Woman (1990)
It’s difficult to overstate the impact Garry Marshall’s era-defining romantic comedy had on fashion. Every single one of the outfits Julia Roberts wears as gregarious good time girl Vivian Ward is unforgettable: the blood-red opera gown, the power-shouldered cream frock, the minidress with the cut outs, the salmon-coloured short suit and the polka-dotted polo look. This summer alone, her ensembles have been referenced by everyone from Megan Thee Stallion to the Duchess of Sussex.
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Jawbreaker (1999)
More than a decade after Heathers and five years before Mean Girls, Darren Stein redefined the pitch-black high school comedy with this irresistible satire starring Rose McGowan, Julie Benz and Rebecca Gayheart as members of an exclusive clique who accidentally kill their friend. Cue a cover up set to Imperial Teen’s “Yoo Hoo” and featuring a host of ’90s staples, from nameplate necklaces and tube tops to kitten heels and cropped cardigans in ice cream hues.
The Craft (1996)
How to dress as a disaffected LA teen dabbling in witchcraft? In Andrew Fleming’s supernatural thriller – in which Neve Campbell, Rachel True, Fairuza Balk and Robin Tunney play the deadly central quartet – the answer is simple: choose plaid minis, lace slip dresses, vinyl trench coats, fishnet tops, chokers and lashings of moody eye make-up. This is goth girl summer at its finest.
10 Things I Hate About You (1999)
There are countless reasons to rewatch Gil Junger’s frothy crowd pleaser – a Seattle-set retelling of The Taming of the Shrew centred on no-nonsense feminist Kat (Julia Stiles) – from our heroine’s devastating one-liners to Heath Ledger’s heartwarming rendition of “Can’t Take My Eyes Off You” and a young Joseph Gordon-Levitt as a lovestruck new student. But, it’s worth looking out for the costumes too, which run the gamut from grungy camouflage-print tops and leather jackets for Kat, to florals and pearls for her sister Bianca. Don’t miss the latter’s sugary-pink tulle prom dress, either.
Basic Instinct (1992)
Catherine Tramell (Sharon Stone) was guilty of bringing us some of the most — ahem — killer on-screen style moments of the early 1990s. The slouchy beige knit cardigan, a sheer top under a jewel-toned oversized blazer, the sequined mini dress, the cream trench coat… The list of elevated, minimalist, decade-defining wardrobe essentials goes on. The verdict? You still can’t go wrong with a cream turtleneck dress (this particular one was designed from scratch by the film’s costume designer Ellen Mirojnick), matching slingback stilettos and a roomy coat.
White Men Can’t Jump (1992)
Wesley Snipes and Woody Harrelson play two streetball hustlers in this major 1992 sleeper hit, which also happens to be the perfect cinematic time capsule of early 1990s street style, namely due to the Nike Air Jordans, Gold’s Gym tanks, Parental Advisory tees, and perfectly oversized floral shirts.
Death Becomes Her (1992)
After opening to tepid reviews and mediocre box office numbers back in 1992, Death Becomes Her has since become one of the best-loved cult classics of all time. Yep, director Robert Zemeckis made campy history with this superbly stylish Meryl Streep and Goldie Hawn-helmed black comedy. While much ado has been made about the undeniable chemistry between the film’s leading ladies and the Oscar-winning special effects, one thing often goes overlooked: English costume designer Joanna Johnston’s selection of bedazzled gowns — and one very special black bodysuit — worn by frenemies Madeline (Streep) and Helen (Hawn). Best in class? Helen’s red chiffon gown with a bustier top, sweetheart neckline and thigh-high slit, complete with matching red heels and a perfect blowout. Red becomes her.
Juice (1992)
Starring Tupac Shakur in his breakout role, Juice relates the experience of Black youth in stalemate society. From the protagonists’ outfits (Reebok Pumps, Kangol caps, puffy jackets, double denim and chequered dungarees) to their daily interactions, the film’s aesthetic and storytelling roots in hip-hop culture set the tone for its cinematic successors for years to come.
Pulp Fiction (1994)
Those of us who favour a more pared-back approach to 1990s style need only look to Pulp Fiction’s Mia Wallace (Uma Thurman). That black bob. Those black trousers. That classic white button-down. Upon its release, the Quentin Tarantino flick was hailed the “most influential film of the decade” by legendary movie critic Roger Ebert. Nearly three decades later, it feels just as relevant, with some going so far as to call Mia a feminist vanguard. Whether you agree or not, one thing’s for sure: on screen, Thurman gifted us with one of the most low-maintenance and crowd-pleasing Halloween costumes of all time.
Prêt-à-Porter (1994)
The scene? Spring/summer 1994 in Paris. Director Robert Altman is enjoying unfettered access to a dream roster of the industry’s most revered names, such as Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Thierry Mugler, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christy Turlington – all of whom help infuse the film with the dizzying hustle and bustle of fashion week. Outside of its real-life fashion figures, the film’s narrative is propelled by its stellar ensemble cast, including Sophia Loren, Kim Basinger and Rupert Everett, with viewers treated to an unparalleled look behind the scenes of the fashion world at its most decadent peak.
Clueless (1995)
There’s a reason why Clueless is the best-known ’90s film for kitsch-cum-chic fashion references (and zingy one-liners... “As if!”). The outfits somehow manage to feel as relevant today as they did more than two decades ago, from Cher’s (Alicia Silverstone) chiffon top and cropped sweater vest to the classic tank-layered-over-a-T-shirt PE class go-to and that iconic red Alaïa dress. However, the most quintessential Clueless look has to be Cher and Dionne’s (Stacey Dash) matching Dolce & Gabbana plaid sets in yellow (Cher) and monochrome (Dionne), complete with Mary Janes and over-the-knee stockings.
Unzipped (1995)
Before there was The September Issue, there was Unzipped – a documentary that offered a rare glimpse into the innermost workings of the fashion industry, detailing the run-up to Isaac Mizrahi’s celebrated autumn/winter 1994 collection. Captured by the designer’s then-partner Douglas Keeve, the film reveals not only the highs and lows of working in the industry, but a candid who’s who of ’90s fashion stars, featuring the likes of Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Linda Evangelista, Carla Bruni and Helena Christensen — while placing viewers smack bang in the middle of the action. Note: you will get invested. Be prepared to share the sense of accomplishment as the final credits roll.
The Doom Generation (1995)
If there’s one thing director Gregg Araki is known for, it’s his bold vision of what the world teetering on the brink of the apocalypse would look like: flamboyantly stylised, sensual and… punk rock? Sandwiched between 1993’s Totally F***ed Up and 1997’s Nowhere as part of his celebrated Teenage Apocalypse Trilogy, Doom centres on Amy (Rose McGowan in her breakout role), her boyfriend Jordan and hitchhiker Xavier on the run from an accidental murder. It’s a slang-laden, drug-addled, angst-riddled coming-of-age story – and it just so happens to be one of the most stylish films of the 1990s, with each character inhabiting a specific sartorial space.
Paying homage to James Dean in Giant (1956), Xavier embodies the archetypical 1950s rebel (think tight jeans, cowboy boots, unbuttoned denim shirt and white cowboy hat, complete with a cigarette dangling from his lips), while Amy epitomises ’90s SoCal glam-punk: oversized leather jackets, Dr Martens, vintage dresses and cat-eye sunglasses. Finally, Jordan’s (deliberately) ripped clothing appears to mirror his lacerated view of the world. Twenty seven years later, Doom’s aesthetic feels surprisingly contemporary.
Catwalk (1995)
This seminal documentary, which follows supermodel Christy Turlington during the spring/summer 1994 season, is the unsung hero of ’90s fashion films, offering a candid and up-close look into the lives of one of the original supermodels. Director Robert Leacock shadows Turlington as she jets between Milan, Paris and New York in effortlessly groomed suiting, sharp silk blouses and leather trench coats. Beyond the intensity of the schedule and the covetable style, this film is also a testament to Turlington’s endless charm.
Set It Off (1996)
This thriller/heist caper, written by Takashi Bufford and the movie’s lead, Jada Pinkett-Smith, follows four Black women as they take on a system designed to see them fail, and when it comes to the fashion (masterminded by costume designer Sylvia Vega-Vasquez) there’s some seriously ingenious style moves at play. It’s thanks to Set It Off that plaid shirts and rigid denim acquired storied status – trust us.
Romeo + Juliet (1997)
Baz Luhrmann’s famed 1996 adaptation of the Shakespearean classic deserves a place on this list for many reasons. Kym Barrett, the head costume designer on set, previously told Vogue that the team had to get creative due to low budgets. The Capulet men paraded through Verona Beach in deadstock Dolce & Gabbana while Mrs Prada designed a custom suit for Leonardo DiCaprio’s Romeo.
Romy and Michele’s High School Reunion (1997)
In 1997, Lisa Kudrow and Mira Sorvino served us self-aware satire and plenty of unforgettable neon-hued PVC. The cult comedy became an instant hit thanks to its boisterous script, poppy soundtrack and fizzing chemistry between its two deadpan leads. More importantly, to this day, it remains a cultural touchpoint for fashion lovers everywhere thanks to its eye-catchingly flamboyant ’90s aesthetic. Think chain-mail club looks complete with chunky heels, feathers and fruit-shaped jewellery. Yes, fruit-shaped jewellery. Take note, ideally on a Post-It.
How Stella Got Her Groove Back (1998)
Starring Angela Bassett, Whoopi Goldberg, Taye Diggs and Regina King, How Stella Got Her Groove Back follows high-powered stock broker Stella (Bassett) as she takes a leap of faith in love. Costume designer Ruth E Carter, whose credits include What’s Love Got to Do with It (1993), Malcolm X (1992) and Do the Right Thing (1989), was the brains behind Stella’s style journey, complete with relaxed suiting, ’90s slip dresses, wide-brimmed hats and breathtaking bikinis by the likes of Valentino, Susan Lazar and Moschino.
The Talented Mr Ripley (1999)
Marge Sherwood will never go out of style, whether embodied by Gwyneth Paltrow or Dakota Fanning. In Anthony Minghella’s The Talented Mr Ripley, she frolics around Italy with trust fund boyfriend Dickie Greenleaf (Jude Law) and murderous con-artist Tom Ripley (Matt Damon), and looks fabulous while doing so.
She’s All That (1999)
If anything can make you nostalgic for the high-school fashions of 1999, it’s She’s All That. Robert Iscove’s teen drama follows Laney Boggs (Rachel Leigh Cook) who goes from invisible dork to potential prom queen, with the underhanded help of Freddie Prinze Jr’s Zack Siler. What this film lacks in substance – speak nothing of its 41 per cent on Rotten Tomatoes – it makes up for in style. Campus DJ Usher in a fedora, Cook in the chicest of prom dresses, Prinze Jr clad in varsity bomber jackets…
Cruel Intentions (1999)
Cruel Intentions’s Kathryn Merteuil (Sarah Michelle Gellar) established herself as one of the decade’s most infamous on-screen antagonists thanks to her Machiavellian scheming and whip-smart fashion sense. Costume designer Denise Wingate transformed Gellar – at the time synonymous with the virtuous Buffy the Vampire Slayer – into the duplicitous lead with custom-made corsetry and Dolce & Gabbana power suiting. Add smoky eye make-up and an autumnal brown lip, and you have one of the chicest movie villains of modern fashion history.
