Not quite full balayage, not quite a single colour, hair contouring is the technique being touted for its complexion-lifting effect. By playing with reflected light to soften features and awaken the complexion, hair contouring can – like its make-up counterpart – illuminate the face. Here, Paris-based stylist Étienne Sekola explains how it works.
What is hair contouring?
Hair contouring is a very light balayage technique that targets only the hair around the face. Unlike a classic balayage, which works on the whole head of hair, this is all about targeting just a few strategically placed strands. For Sekola, the objective is clear: “To bring light into the face through subtle lightening [of the hair]. These well-placed touches of colour soften features, illuminate the complexion and immediately give a fresher, younger, more rested effect – while remaining very natural.”
Hair contouring is an excellent choice for anyone keen for a change but reluctant to radically transform their colour or commit to expensive upkeep. Even if the result is almost imperceptible, the effect is extra flattering.
Is hair contouring high-maintenance?
“It’s an extremely easy technique to maintain,” says Sekola. “Because the work is light and blended, balayage can evolve naturally over time. Maintenance is recommended at least every three months, but some people can easily wait six to eight months depending on the desired effect.” You shouldn’t see pronounced roots or harsh regrowth with this approach.
Which cuts are best for hair contouring?
“The more layered the cut, the more visible and flattering the hair contouring is,” Sekola says. “It works less well on very blunt cuts, such as a strict bob. Ideally, you should be able to run your hand through the hair: movement reveals the play of light. The aim is to create an impression of natural radiance, as if nothing had been done.” In other words, layered hair that’s medium-to-long, or soft and wavy styles seem to work best for hair contouring.
What to ask for at the salon
The main rule is a lightness of touch. Above all, this is a minimalist, effortless look. “It’s best to go for discreet contouring, with very few extra-light areas,” says Sekola. For example, on a dark chestnut base, you don’t want highlights that are too blonde. Instead, opt for chestnut or light chestnut to create a soft, harmonious result.
Sekola recommends not creating too much contrast – especially if you want a subtle result. “It’s important to avoid pulling the bleach too high or going too light right from the start,” Sekola says. Hair contouring should remain subtle – almost imperceptible – especially when it’s done for the first time. It’s best to go step by step so that you can adjust, refine and perfect.