Ballet pumps, by name and by nature, are supple and dainty, designed in the same spirit as the pointe shoes principal dancers wear on stage. Miu Miu’s satin styles, complete with wafer-thin soles, prim bows and elasticated straps (akin to those seen on training footwear), have become fashion favourites, copied over and over. So, too, Alaïa’s mesh and crystal-swathed Mary Janes. Whether sprinkled with sequins or rendered in lacquered leather, the blueprint for a modern ballet flat is fluid. And though their appeal lies in their ease and wearability, many brands have proposed heeled ballet pumps.
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Some of the most iconic ballerinas come courtesy of Chanel. The two-tone shoes started life as sling-backs, debuted by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel in 1957, and were transformed into trad ballerinas by Karl Lagerfeld in 1984. They have since morphed into styles of varying heights – most recently on Matthieu Blazy’s inaugural runway for the maison, as glove heels, block heels, sling-backs and mules.
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And while these echo Lagerfeld’s ballets, they’re less direct in their dance-inspired appearance than, say, Jacquemus’s Les Chaussures, which replicate the stiff squared-off toe of a pointe shoe – albeit with a biro-sized metal stiletto sprouting out their heels. Or, the teardrop-heeled takes on Miu Miu’s cult satin styles (also available with a one-inch kitten), or Louboutin’s not-for-the-faint-of-heart 10cm-stiletto Cassia.
Ballet flat loyalists have embraced block heels courtesy of specialist Repetto, which offer elevation without the threat of falling over. The 3cm-heeled Camille is a sought-after model, and has recently gained as much traction as the classic Cendrillon style. Testament to their versatility, endorsers have sported theirs with jeans, flares, skirts and dresses throughout the seasons – sometimes paired with demure white socks.
The heel-ification of ballet pumps is ongoing, but there lies a question for anyone willing to try: how high are you willing to go? Shop Vogue’s edit of the heeled ballet pumps.
