Not to sound too despondent, but “In the Bleak Midwinter” just about sums up the current mood. December’s festivities are long over, large swathes of us have sworn off alcohol, and the rain just keeps on coming. I think I could deal with all of it if my skin hadn’t decided to freak out, too. It’s to be expected at this time of year: going from blasting central heating indoors to frigid temperatures outside can cause the skin to become tight, dry and flaky, with patches of texture and oiliness to boot.
This cycling between cold and hot air threatens to compromise anyone’s skin barrier, leading to redness, sensitivity and soreness. For those with conditions like psoriasis, acne, perioral dermatitis or eczema, specifically, this compromise may lead to flare-ups and breakouts. Hate!
Why your skin is tight, dry and flaking
“When cold weather arrives, humidity levels drop drastically,” Arabella Preston, Kate Middleton’s former make-up artist and a co-founder of skincare brand Votary, previously explained to British Vogue. “This, combined with dry heat from central heating and the fact that our oil-producing sebaceous glands get sluggish in colder weather, can leave normally healthy skin feeling dehydrated. It often becomes sensitive, and that can lead to more serious skin conditions.”
How to remedy central heating face
So, what to do? Here, the experts break down why your skin is suffering, and how to sort it out.
Think of your skin barrier like a brick wall. The bricks (and cement) are a blend of things like ceramides, lipids, fatty acids, all designed to attract and keep as much water as possible inside the skin. When the skin barrier is compromised, gaps form between these bricks and moisture and hydration can “leak out” through a process called transepidermal water loss – or TEWL. These gaps can also make the skin more prone to inflammation, as not only will moisture escape, but unwanted particles and bacteria can slip through.
The repeating cycle of warm and cold air, combined with plummeting humidity, acts as a stressor on the skin, requiring it to adapt too often to maintain its integrity, thus losing vital moisture to the elements.
“A compromised skin barrier can be ashy or flaky, and can feel irritated (or sting) after any chemical formula is applied. You might also experience acne breakouts, rosacea and eczema,” explains Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and chief medical officer at Klira. You might also notice textural changes and small bumps or rough patches appearing.
The best place to start when attempting to address a depleted skin barrier is with stripping your routine back to the basics. “Keep it simple,” says facialist Katharine Mackenzie Paterson. “Think cleanser, moisturiser and SPF – remove any retinoids or acids, in particular.” Your cleanser and moisturiser should both prioritise water retention, so look for lipids (natural fats and oils) like ceramides and cholesterol, as well as glycerin, a water-attracting ingredient that can help draw water into the skin.
Something like a hypochlorous acid spray will also help to soothe inflammation in those with psoriasis and eczema, and gently address acne-causing bacteria in those with breakout-prone skin.
An insider tip: hypcohlorous acid is so gentle that it’s often sold in sprays designed to soothe and sanitise baby skin (diaper rash, cradle cap and minor cuts), as well as their toys and items like pacifiers. Look for hypochlorous acid in the baby aisles of pharmacies for an affordable (between £2 and £5) skin soothing spray. I use the Vital Baby Aquaint Cleansing Water, decanting it into smaller sprays for travel.
If your skin barrier isn’t compromised but you want to maintain its healthy functioning, there’s no need to drastically overhaul your routine, but you may notice your skin becoming more irritated than normal when using products that contain retinol or strong acids. If this happens, cut down your use (from daily to every other day or twice weekly, for example) or incorporate a thicker, richer moisturiser with ceramides.
Disclaimer: if your skin barrier is compromised, don’t keep going with your exfoliation. Wait for the flare-up to pass and then see how your skin is faring. It’s better to play it safe with your skin than repeatedly stress it out, you can’t fight fire with fire.
If your skin is sub-optimal but not in dire straits, an appropriate exfoliator can help slough off dead skin cells, revealing brighter, newer skin beneath. Removing these cells can improve the absorption of serums, creams and oils, too.
If you’re new to acids, look for something gentle, like a PHA (polyhydroxy acid) or LHA (beta-lipohydroxy acid), as they have larger molecules than BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) and AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) and take longer to penetrate the skin. Other gentle acids include lactic and mandelic acid, as well as low concentrations of malic, azelaic and glycolic acids.
The trick to avoiding irritation, explains consultant dermatologist Dr Thivi Maruthappu is to dial down how frequently you use them. “I tend to advise reducing the frequency of exfoliation to once or twice a week,” says Maruthappu, “And avoid combining physical exfoliants, like grainy scrubs, with chemical exfoliants, such as alpha or beta hydroxy acids, as this can lead to redness and irritation – particularly if you are also using a retinoid product.”
Humectants are ingredients that draw water towards them and into the skin. Examples include hyaluronic acid (a molecule that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water), glycerin, urea and alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acid, as well as honey and aloe vera. When central heating and harsh weather are stripping the moisture from the skin, choosing ingredients that work overtime to attract, hold and trap water is crucial.
Emollients and occlusives can also be good to keep in your back pocket, but they won’t suit all skin types. Emollients – like shea and cocoa butter – are lubricating agents that form a layer over the skin. This barrier helps stop water escaping. They are thicker than humectants, which can often be found in smooth, silky serums, essences and mists, and form a first line of defence when your skin comes into contact with cold air. Occlusives are similar, in that they help trap moisture, but are heavier than humectants and emollients. Think petroleum jelly, waxes and oil balms.
For very dry skin, incorporating all three can help minimise water loss. For people who just need a little extra zhuzh, introducing humectants and a barrier-supporting moisturiser should be enough to get you back on track.
The easiest way to soothe central heating skin is to turn down the temperature when you shower and wash your face.
“[Hot water] causes inflammation that can lead to the disruption of the normal skin barrier,” says New York-based dermatologist Robert Anolik. “Such high water temperatures can also wash away natural skin oils which are so important for retaining moisture.” Water should be lukewarm to wash your face, the experts agree. If you can’t face a tepid shower (fair enough), just try not to wash your face in it. Stick to medium to cool water and, for very tight skin, consider skipping your morning cleanse or try using just micellar water.
