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You might be surprised to learn that the best collagen creams don’t always contain collagen – at least not if the goal is to actually boost your skin’s collagen. Sounds confusing? Here’s what the experts say.
Vogue’s favourite collagen creams at a glance:
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“Collagen creams that contain only collagen help hydrate the skin and give it a temporarily plumper, more radiant look,” explains Dr. Morayo Adisa, MD, FAAD, a double board-certified dermatologist and dermatopathologist at Dermatology Physicians Chicago – Kenilworth. “But they don’t actually rebuild the skin’s collagen. That’s because collagen molecules are typically too large to penetrate beyond the surface of the skin.”
Instead, she notes, creams made with ingredients like vitamin C, peptides or growth factors are more effective when it comes to stimulating your body’s natural collagen production.
So while the phrase “collagen cream” may be a bit of a misnomer, it is fair to say that the best of the bunch can help give the skin that smooth, bouncy look the structural protein is known for. And even for those not yet affected by visible signs of ageing, using collagen creams can help deliver that dewy glow that’s desirable at any age.
So, which collagen cream – and moreover, which active ingredient – is right for you? Valerie Aparovich, a biochemist, certified cosmetologist-aesthetician and the science team lead at OnSkin, breaks it down. “For a quick hydration boost, opt for formulas with collagen,” she says. “For anti-ageing benefits, such as firming and wrinkle reduction, look for products containing peptides.” In both cases, she recommends choosing formulas rich in antioxidants, as they help preserve collagen by reducing free-radical damage that can hasten its degradation. With that cleared up, it’s time to shop. Ahead, find an edit of the absolute best collagen creams on the market, ranging from buzzy K-beauty finds to high-tech formulations and the Elemis O.G. itself.
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Absolute Collagen’s offering stands out in the crowded collagen market for its commitment to clinical testing. This is true for its collection of supplements as well as its topical products, to which the Deep Lift Collagen Boosting Day Cream is one of the favourites among Vogue editors. With a lovely scent, a sumptuous feel and immediate plumping benefits, there is a lot to love about its formula. The cream contains trademarked Matrixyl 3000 peptides to stimulate collagen production as well as SPF30 to protect the skin. Honourable mention too goes to the brand’s Night Cream.
- Key ingredients: niacinamide, Matrixyl 3000 peptides, SPF30
- Best for: Plump, glowing skin
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: A longtime favourite amongst Vogue editors looking for a plumper, firmer glow, Elemis’s algae-infused cream is infused with sustainably sourced marine and plant extracts, including ginkgo biloba, mimosa and padina pavonica. It hydrates, plumps and repairs the skin while smoothing out fine lines and wrinkles. And at the end of the day, the collagen cream standard-bearer feels great on the skin. “Like any of the leading luxury cosmetics on the market, a sensorial experience is a must, and Pro-Collagen Marine Cream certainly delivers,” beauty shopping editor Kiana Murden says. “Its silky cream texture feels weightless on the skin, layering well with other products in my routine.”
- Key ingredients: Ginkgo biloba, mimosa, Padina pavonica
- Best for: Wrinkles, firmness, tone, hydration
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: This Korean jelly cream has gone viral – and not only for its pink-tinted Instagram appeal. Infused with hydrolysed collagen and elastin, as well as niacinamide and squalane, the radiance-boosting salve has impressed even the most discerning skin-care pros. “This contains humectants to hydrate the skin, squalane to support the skin barrier and niacinamide, which helps improve tone and texture,” says Dr Hadley C. King, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. Aparovich adds her own ringing endorsement: “Featuring a dozen plant extracts derived from a diverse blend of fruits, berries, vegetables and flowers, it’s an antioxidant powerhouse that helps protect cellular health, revitalise the skin and promote a healthy glow, further enhanced by the brightening effects of niacinamide,” she says.
- Key ingredients: Hydrolysed collagen, niacinamide, squalane, hydrolysed elastin
- Best for: Radiance, firmness, restoring skin barrier
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: Promising to restore skin’s bounce and firmness, this peptide-infused moisturiser has an ingredient list that Dr King stands by. “It contains humectants like glycerin to hydrate and plump the skin, and emollients like squalane to support the skin barrier,” she says. “It also contains anti-ageing peptides that help stimulate collagen production and smooth fine lines.” Aparovich is also a fan. “This lightweight, non-greasy gel-cream is suitable for all skin types, delivering potent hydration and moisture and boosting plumpness and suppleness,” she affirms. In addition to the ingredients listed above, Aparovich notes that the product contains Pyrus malus (apple) fruit and Gigartina stellata extracts, which “soften the skin and raise its antioxidant capacity.”
- Key ingredients: Pro-collagen peptide complex, squalane, Pyrus malus (apple) fruit and Gigartina stellata extracts
- Best for: Wrinkles, loss of firmness, plumping, restoring bounce
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: This affordable gem is also approved by Dr King, who confirms that its ingredients work to support skin health for an altogether more youthful look. “It contains niacinamide to improve skin tone and texture, as well as humectants like glycerine to hydrate and plump the skin,” she says. “It also has emollients like fatty acids to support the skin barrier, and Matrixyl, an anti-ageing peptide that helps to stimulate collagen production.” Elaborating on the benefits of pairing collagen with niacinamide, Aparovich says: “Niacinamide complements the hydrating and skin-repairing effects of collagen and peptides with its calming and barrier-strengthening properties.”
- Key ingredients: Collagen peptide, niacinamide, pro-vitamin B5
- Best for: Elasticity, skin-cell turnover, moisturising, supporting skin barrier
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: “This is a favourite for more advanced signs of ageing,” says Kristina Collins, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs micrographic surgeon in Austin. “It addresses glycation, a key process that accelerates collagen breakdown, and helps restore firmness in thinning or sagging skin.” For the uninitiated, during glycation, sugar molecules bind to structural proteins – such as collagen or elastin – that keep the skin smooth and firm. Signs of glycation include fine lines, wrinkles, laxity, uneven tone, a rough skin texture and dullness, all of which the cream works to address. What’s more, it has a light, satiny feel on the skin that makes it easily layered and applied.
- Key ingredients: 18% concentrated proxylane, 4.25% wild fruit flavonoids, 0.1% glycyrrhetinic acid
- Best for: Wrinkles, laxity, free-radical damage, radiance, fine lines, crows’ feet
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: This Japanese cream, formulated with a patented dipeptide, has the stamp of approval from Dr Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD, founder and medical director of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham. “Collagen creams can work, but there are limitations,” he says. “I recommend looking for collagen creams that use active ingredients like peptides, retinol and vitamin C that can help stimulate and boost the body’s natural production of collagen.” DHC’s vitamin C-infused moisturiser is one such example. “It has a hydrating formula that supports skin elasticity and firmness with its active patented ingredient, micronised collagen dipeptide-8,” he says. “When applied, the formula promotes a firmer and more youthful appearance to the skin.” He adds that the cream is gentle and fragrance-free, which makes it suitable for sensitive and dry skin. From an ingredient perspective, “using vitamin C alongside peptides helps boost the production of new collagen fibres in the skin, while also protecting existing collagen and brightening the complexion,” Aparovich explains.
- Key ingredients: DHC-patented dipeptide-8, vitamin C
- Best for: Hydration, texture, radiance
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: “This is a high-performance cream that includes growth factors, peptides and retinoids to support collagen synthesis and skin regeneration overnight,” says Dr Collins. “I recommend it for patients who want a medical-grade night cream with visible firming effects.” The cream has a loyal following of celebrities, which is no small wonder. The product is the brainchild of Dr Jason Diamond, a Beverly Hills facial plastic surgeon whose client list includes Kim Kardashian and Kris Jenner.
- Key ingredients: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Myristoyl nonapeptide-3, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, niacinamide, Nicotiana benthamiana hexapeptide-40 sh-oligopeptide-1, hyaluronic acid complex
- Best for: Wrinkles, skin tone, hyperpigmentation
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: “Preferable for dry and normal skin, this cream features several active ingredients that work in synergy to smooth, plump and refresh the skin,” Aparovich says. Its peptides encourage collagen production, thus firming the skin and improving the appearance of wrinkles, she explains. Meanwhile, “vitamin E, vegetable glycerin, provitamin B5 and jojoba oil introduce a majorly moisturising effect and help prevent transepidermal water loss,” she says. There are also botanical ingredients that soothe the skin while reducing redness, including green tea, chamomile, and witch hazel extracts.
- Key ingredients: Peptides, vitamin E, vegetable glycerin, provitamin B5, jojoba oil
- Best for: Fine lines and wrinkles, plumping, hydration, redness, tone, texture
- Why it’s Vogue-approved: While signs of ageing are most visible on mature skin, collagen production starts to decline in our twenties, and that’s where preventative creams like this come in. “I recommend this one often, especially for younger patients,” says Dr Collins. “It contains a well-balanced mix of peptides and growth factors to support skin renewal and elasticity without clogging pores.” The cream’s lightweight, gel-cream texture lends itself to mixing with other products – such as serums or moisturisers – and it’s known to give the skin a bit of that ever-desirable plumped-up look. “Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, tocopherol, marula seed oil and plant-derived stem cell extract deliver a potent dose of moisture, contributing to plumpness and radiance,” Aparovich says.
- Key ingredients: Signal peptide complex, waterlily stem cell extract, soybean folic and ferment extract, hyaluronic acid
- Best for: Firming, strengthening, fine lines, wrinkles, tone, radiance
FAQs
Do collagen creams really work?
“High-quality collagen booster formulas can deliver visible improvements when used consistently over time, helping to refine the skin’s texture and overall appearance,” Aparovich says. “However, collagen loss is a natural part of the ageing process, as the body’s ability to produce this structural protein significantly declines over time. No cosmetic product can stop or reverse this process entirely, but the right formulas, along with healthy lifestyle habits, can help maintain collagen levels and slow the manifestation of the signs of ageing.”
What to look for in a collagen cream
“If someone is truly looking to stimulate collagen, I suggest choosing ingredients with evidence, such as topical retinol, certain peptides, exosomes and growth factors,” Dr Humphrey says. “These are better studied [than topical collagen] and known to normalise elastic tissue and support collagen synthesis.”
What ingredients pair well with collagen?
“Topical collagen is not biologically active in the skin, so it is generally well tolerated and can be layered with hydrating agents like hyaluronic acid,” Dr Humphrey says. However, she reiterates that most patients are better served by focusing on ingredients that go deeper into the skin, rather than relying on topical collagen for structural benefits.
As for ingredients that don’t play so well with collagen, Dr Adisa says: “Avoid strong actives, especially the acids such as alpha hydroxy acids, which can be too irritating or render the peptides inactive or decrease the activity and efficacy of the topical collagen.”
Meet the experts
- Kristina Collins, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist and Mohs micrographic surgeon in Austin.
- Shannon Humphrey, MD, FRCPC, is a clinical associate professor at the University of British Columbia and the medical director of Humphrey & Beleznay Cosmetic Dermatology in Vancouver.
- Corey L. Hartman, MD, FAAD, is the founder and medical director of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham.
- Hadley C. King, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- Valerie Aparovich is a biochemist, certified cosmetologist-aesthetician and science team lead at OnSkin.
- Charles Puza, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and content creator based in New York City.
- Nazanin Saedi, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Dermatology Associates of Plymouth Meeting.
- Morayo Adisa, MD, FAAD, is a double board-certified dermatologist and dermapathologist at Dermatology Physicians Chicago/ Kenilworth.
- Eleonora Fedonenko is a doctor of medicine and the medical director of Your Laser Skin Care in Los Angeles.