“What is the best skincare product you have ever used?” This is the question I posed to the Vogue editorial team. It’s not an easy one to answer. It’s a big ask that really got the editors scratching their heads. I want to know the ones they’ll replace for a straight swap. The ones they’ll cut open and eke out every last drop. The ones they’ll ration just to make them last that extra bit longer.
“A good skincare product supports and enhances skin health and optimises the appearance of the skin,” Dr Emma Wedgeworth, consultant dermatologist for AxisBiotix, tells us succinctly.
The skincare industry is constantly evolving, and new formulas are revealed each and every day. Which are the ones that transcend the notion of trend and have remained stalwarts since their launch? Keep scrolling to find out.
- What are the biggest misconceptions people have about “best” skincare products?
- Are expensive skincare products usually better than affordable options?
- What are the essential skincare products for each skin type?
- What ingredients do you consider must-haves?
- How should consumers layer active ingredients safely?
- Are natural or clean ingredients always better?
- What signs should you look for to know if a product isn’t working?
- How long should you try a product before judging its effectiveness?
FAQs
What are the biggest misconceptions people have about the best skincare products?
Consultant dermatologist Dr Emma Wedgeworth tells us that people fail to consider the bigger picture. “Skincare is not just about creams,” she stresses. “Looking after your skin health needs an inside-out approach. Diet, lifestyle and a healthy gut are all very important, and probiotic supplements such as AxisBiotix can be very helpful to complement a skincare routine.” She also advises managing expectations and being cautious that just because something works for someone, it may not always work for you. “There is no one ‘wonder’ product,” she believes. “We need to find products that suit our own skin’s physiology.”
Are expensive skincare products usually better than affordable options?
Dr Wedgeworth says this is another common misconception – “You can find great products at many different price points and price does not directly correlate with efficacy.”
What are the essential skincare products for each skin type?
While it’s often the case that different skin types have different needs – be it dry, oily, combination, sensitive or acne-prone – some crucial steps will suit all the above. “All skin types need to get the basics right,” the dermatologist tells us. “Cleanse, moisturise and protect with sunscreen.”
However, what to look for within those categories is skin type-dependent. The derm breaks it down:
- “For sensitive skin, I use cream-based, gentle cleansers.
- For oilier skins, I’ll advise a gel-based or even foaming cleanser. Moisturisers for oily skin will be lighter lotions or gels.
- For dry skin, richer creams or balms are required to trap water in the skin to optimise hydration.”
What steps to add throughout are to solve common concerns. “Those with dry, sensitive skin may need to layer a hydrating serum to boost barrier function and balance the microbiome,” she adds. While “For oily, acne-prone skin, salicyclic acid is useful either as a leave-on gel or in cleansers, as it helps regulate sebum production and unclog pores.”
What ingredients do you consider must-haves?
No matter your skin type and come rain or shine, SPF is essential. “Broad spectrum UV filters which cover the UVB, UVA and visible light part of the electromagnetic spectrum are one of the best ways to prevent damage and future proof the skin,” the skin expert explains.
She also waxes lyrical about components to support the skin barrier, namely “ingredients like ceramides, niacinamide and ectoin,” which she says, “are great ways of reinforcing the skin barrier – the outer layer of our skin which is essential for protection and hydration.”
While skin-protecting, glow-giving antioxidants like vitamin C will “help to protect against environmental damage from pollution and other free radicals.”
How should consumers layer active ingredients safely?
“Don’t overload your skin,” Dr Emma Wedgeworth stresses. “Pick one or two ingredients and use them regularly. The order of your products can depend on the consistency – I tend to go with lighter products first, although your sunscreen is always your last step in the morning (before any make-up). I’ll often use vitamin C in a serum, which goes on in the morning, first thing after cleansing. Retinol is always used at night because it's unstable in sunlight and increases sun sensitivity. Ensure each layer is touch-dry before applying the next product.”
Are natural or clean ingredients always better?
First and foremost, the term ‘clean’ is highly unregulated in the industry and doesn’t have a clear definition. What’s more, “Whilst some naturally occurring ingredients can be very beneficial, many natural or plant-based extracts can be highly irritating to the skin,” Dr Wedgeworth adds. “We want products to be physiological – i.e. respect the natural biology of the skin.”
What signs should you look for to know if a product isn’t working?
“Skincare products should enhance the skin, so if you’re using a product and your skin isn’t looking better over time, it’s probably not for you,” advises the derm.“There are some caveats to this – for example, some actives like retinoids can take a few months to see the benefits. Skincare should not produce severe reactions, so anything that is causing significant irritation should be stopped immediately.”
How long should you try a product before judging its effectiveness?
The expert says this is specific to the product in question. “With cleansers, moisturisers and sunscreens, you should be able to work out how they suit your skin within a couple of weeks”. Whereas when it comes to active ingredients (retinoids, azelaic acid, etc.), “it can take up to three months to see the benefits.”